How to drain a country house

The installation of a sewerage system in a village house involves the installation of internal and external highways. The first covers all plumbing fixtures and a toilet, and the second contains elements that ensure the discharge of wastewater to the sump tank. The system can be both autonomous and connected to the central sewerage system. In villages, the first option is usually installed with the drainage into a cesspool or sewer well.

Basic principles of sewerage in a wooden house

Wooden houses tend to sink. It is important to take this into account when bringing the pipe to the street.

In Russian villages, most of the residential buildings are wooden. When assembling the sewer system, it must be borne in mind that the main problem is the significant shrinkage characteristic of frame and, especially, log houses. Therefore, the installation of an internal sewer line in a private house made of wood is carried out especially carefully.

To make the internal sewerage system in a rural house correctly, the following points must be taken into account:

  • On the sections of the passage of the sewer system through the load-bearing walls or partition structures, compensation gaps are left necessary to protect the drain pipes from damage during the shrinkage of the structure.
  • With a pile foundation, the main sewer line is usually laid between the piles.
  • The main parts of the horizontal wiring are installed in the ceilings. When arranging the network, it is not allowed to violate the integrity of the supporting beams. Therefore, the sewerage project must be designed so that the length of such sections is as short as possible. The best option is to install plumbing fixtures near the risers.
  • Be sure to equip fan ventilation, which prevents the breakdown of water seals and relieves of unpleasant "odors" in the house.
  • When laying the system in a horizontal direction in a wooden house, they provide an inclination towards the risers to move water at an optimal speed (30 mm per 1 meter for a pipe with a cross section of 50 mm, and 20 mm for a pipe of 110 mm).

It is not required to rigidly fasten the parts of the sewer pipeline to the walls or load-bearing floor beams. It is best to use suspensions or other fixing elements that ensure the immobility of the line when the structure shrinks.

All other aspects of the installation of the pipeline in a residential building made of wood are identical to the installation of a sewer main in a city apartment. With regard to the street system, special attention will need to be paid to the selection of treatment wells. For a one-story house, a device with a productivity of 400-700 liters per day is quite enough.

Nuances of design

Before starting work, you will need to draw up an individual pipeline diagram, taking into account the characteristics of the building and the location of the premises. When designing an internal line, an accurate calculation of the location of the fan pipe is required. Only after that it is possible to establish where the rest of the sewerage elements will be laid.

Stages of drawing up a drawing:

  1. On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, draw a plan of the building to scale.
  2. Select the location where the riser or manifold will be located.
  3. Put marks on all floors of the house where the sanitary appliances will be installed, and make the routing of the drain pipes from the riser, taking into account the connecting nodes.
  4. Measure the length of each part of the sewer in the house and add up the dimensions to calculate the exact amount of building materials.

The final step will be drawing up a diagram of the external system: the discharge of pipes and their laying before the treatment plant. In this case, it is required to take into account all the requirements that are specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110–02, and in SNiP 2.04.03–85.

The choice of sewer pipes

Plastic pipes for internal and external sewerage

For sewerage in a residential building, it is better to select polymer pipes. Cast iron models are more durable, but they are much more expensive and deform over time due to corrosion, "overgrow" from the inside, which reduces their functionality.

Products made of PVC and polypropylene are more reliable and easy to use. Do-it-yourself mounting is much easier.

Different models are used for internal and external piping. The latter are tougher and more durable, because they have to withstand serious loads when buried in the ground. They are usually of a bright red hue to stand out from the ground. Outside pipelines were made - gray or white.

  • To drain water from the toilet, you will need pipes with a cross section of 100-110 mm. Their total length is at least 1 meter.
  • For wastewater entering the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride with a cross section of 50 mm will be required.
  • In places where the sewer turns, it is necessary to use several fitting elements bent at 45 degrees. This helps to reduce the risk of blockages during system operation.

To carry out an external sewage system in a wooden house, pipe sections with a cross section of 11 cm are used.This is quite enough for the normal drainage of drains.

If necessary, the pipeline is insulated. For these purposes, heat-insulating materials or a special cable are used. Thermal insulation for the sewerage system is available in two types: rolled and molded. If you are leaning towards using a cable, you can buy pipe sections on which it is already installed.

Installation steps

The installation of the pipeline begins with the outlet - the border section connecting the home and street highways. It is usually mounted below the level of freezing of the earth, in the thickness of the foundation. The outlet section is 140–150 mm. A sleeve is installed inside it, and a fan pipe with a cross section of 100-110 mm is passed through it, through which wastewater will be discharged to the external system. The release must be insulated. If you mount it above the depth of freezing of the earth and do not make thermal insulation, in winter the sewage system will simply not be able to work, and its repair will be postponed until spring.

Creating a sewage system in a village house with your own hands:

  1. The connection of pipes from the toilet and sinks, installed at a slight slope, is performed on a common riser, which is securely attached to the wall.
  2. The outer end of the pipe line is led out into a hole in the base of the house.
  3. A trench is equipped with a cushion of sand and gravel, where the outdoor system is installed.
    It is laid below the level of soil freezing (no higher than 0.7 m, but no deeper than 3 meters). The slope of the horizontal pipe leading to the sewer well should be approximately three degrees.
  4. A pit is dug for a cesspool or two or three for a treatment plant (depending on the total number of chambers). The septic tank should be at least 5 meters away from the farmhouse. But laying the line further than 15 meters is also not recommended - this will lead to frequent blockages.
  5. The selected version of the cleaning device is equipped and connected to the mains.

Before burying the pipes, check the correct installation by performing a test run of the system.

If you follow the technological nuances, it is quite possible to make a sewage system in the village on your own. Living conditions in a private house will be no worse than urban ones.

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  1. Sergey

    Everything is correct, a simple cesspool is the most reliable and simple structure and the minimum of hassle I have made of three well rings has been working for 20 years, only have time to pump out water

    Reply

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