Installing storm water around the house on your own

So that rain / snow water does not have a negative impact on the soil and buildings, it is necessary to equip a storm sewer. Correct calculations and accuracy of actions during construction work ensure high-quality removal of moisture from the foundation and from the soil. When installing a storm sewer in a private house with your own hands, it is important to decide on the type of system and the diameter of the pipes / gutters.

Types and arrangement of stormwater

By the type of deepening, there are three types of drainage:

• Recessed system (closed / point). It assumes the presence of storm inlet tanks along the perimeter of the roof under the pipes and underground collector arms extending from them. Through them, rain / melt water is sent to the discharge point or to the storage tank. In the future, such drains can be used on the farm for irrigation and irrigation.
• Open (linear). It involves the device of special trays connected to each other in an extended collector along the perimeter of the site. The trays are located on the surface of the ground, and the upper edge of their grates is located just below the platform from which water is drained. According to the law of communicating vessels, all rainwater flows through the gutters, as a result, into a large receiver. More often, an open storm drain is used to remove seasonal water from the foundation, garden and walking paths.
• Mixed. It involves the use of both types of sewerage. More often, this design is used on difficult terrain or in large areas.

The type of stormwater is determined depending on the available construction budget and the characteristics of the soil.

Storm sewer components

The main elements when arranging stormwater in the country on your own:

• Drainage system from the roof, including funnels, pipes, elbows, suspended gutters;
• stormwater trays located around the perimeter of the house;
• decorative grilles that prevent debris from entering the gutters;
• point storm water inlets with sand traps;
• underground pipes for transporting wastewater to a discharge point or city sewer;
• revision, drop, rotary, drainage wells.

Each of the elements fulfills its specific function. The exclusion of at least one of the selected type of system will lead to the failure of the entire communication.

Design and preparation

Without accurate and careful design, it makes no sense to start the construction of storm drains. Communication mounted at random simply will not cope with the task at hand. Water will not leave the site. The top layers of the soil will turn into a swampy mess. The outer walls of the foundation will suffer from this and the money can be considered wasted.

When drawing up diagrams, drawings and project documentation, it is important to take into account the following parameters:

• the volume of rain and melt water that will be discharged through storm sewers;
• the average frequency of precipitation in the region - taken from the local meteorological service or pro-environmental institution;
• roof area in horizontal projection for drainage of rainwater through a point collector;
• physical and mechanical properties of soil (for closed communication). Here they take into account the type of soil, the degree of its heaving.

Thanks to the data obtained, the required diameter of pipes / gutters for the stormwater device is determined. Recommended parameters are taken from SNiP 2.04.03 - 85 “Sewerage. External networks and facilities ". From here, they take data on the level of deepening and the slope of the system.The parameters change depending on the selected diameter of pipes / trays.

To make storm sewers around the house, you need to draw its scheme, taking into account the passage of existing underground utilities. This will facilitate installation and prevent damage to previously laid pipes.

Selection of pipes / trays for stormwater

After the stage of calculations and preparation of drawings, you should decide on the materials for the main elements.

• Polymers. Ideal for a private system. Plastic elements are easy to work with, inert to aggressive media, prone to linear tension and withstand medium dynamic / static loads. In addition, the inner surface of the plastic trays / pipes is smooth, which accelerates the flow of water even with a minimal slope of the sewer.
• Asbestos cement. A good option for arranging a storm drain for a large area. The material is strong, durable, has an acceptable weight and can withstand the effects of aggressive environments.
• Cast iron. An expensive, strong, durable metal with an impressive mass. Cast iron pipes, trays, storm water inlets are more often used in city highways.

In private construction, you can use polymer protective grilles. They are lightweight and strong enough for medium intensity loads.

Stages of installation of stormwater in a private house

First of all, before starting the installation work, it is worth making an accurate markup of all communications on the site. To do this, use a tape measure, pegs and a building thread. All the locations of pipes, storm water inlets, wells are noted, the final place of collection of water - it is located at the lowest point of the site. Further, during the construction of a closed point system, they act in the following sequence:

1. In accordance with the markings, trenches and wells are dug for the installation of storm water inlets / trays. The bottom of trenches and pits is well rammed. When digging, take into account that a sand cushion with a thickness of 15-20 cm will be laid under the pipes and tanks. That is, the depth is increased by this parameter. In the course of digging trenches, a given slope is observed.
2. Pipes are laid on a sand cushion and connected in series with couplings. It is advisable to treat all joints with a sealant.
3. Storm inlets and wells are installed in the prepared pits, if the communication has differences in relief, turns or the length of one section is more than 10 m. All elements are connected into a single system.
4. When connecting storm water inlets with pipes, sand traps are immediately mounted. They prevent silting / clogging of the system by sand and earth.
5. Check the storm drain by pouring water into the tanks. If all the joints remain sealed and the water has left at the required speed, the system can be backfilled. First, it is sprinkled with gravel with a layer of 10-15 cm, and soil is laid on top. You do not need to ram it, it will sit down over time.

When installing an open storm drain, work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Prepare trenches for laying gutters, observing the slope.
2. The bottom of the grooves is covered with a sand cushion. If concrete trays are laid, then a 10 cm concrete solution is poured onto the sand. It will serve as the basis for heavy gutters.
3. Trays are mounted on cooled concrete or on a sand cushion, connecting them into an extended collector. All joints are coated with sealant.
4. The installed collector on the sides is covered with crushed stone and tamped well.
5. The gutters are covered with decorative protective grilles.

To extend the service life of a closed storm drain, it is important to regularly flush it under pressure - once every 4-5 years. It is enough to empty the open system of debris once a season.