A high-quality drainage system is a guarantee of reliable protection of the facade and foundation of the building from atmospheric moisture. In order to correctly drain water from the roof, you need to complete the installation of all communication elements, including the installation of drain pipes with your own hands. More often, craftsmen prefer to work with PVC (plastic) systems. But there are those who do justice to galvanizing. The principle of the system is practically the same here.
Diy gutter system installation technology
When installing gutters, it is important to follow the technology. This will get the job done without common mistakes.
Calculation of the number of brackets and methods of their fastening
Hooks (aka holders or brackets) are the very first important part of the gutter system. They are designed to securely fix the trays (gutters). The brackets are attached either to the rafter system or to the frontal board. In the first case, long hooks are used. In the second, they are short.
To calculate the required number of supports for each roof slope, you need to sum up the length of the walls under them and divide by the estimated spacing of the holders. This value can be from 60 to 80 cm. The larger the cross-section of the water intake tray, the smaller the step should be.
Example: we have two slopes 10 m long each. We sum up and get 20 m. Divide the value by 70 cm (acceptable step). The result is 2,000 cm: 70 = 30 pcs. Additionally, we add 2-3 hooks to mount them at the indents from the drainpipe (and just as a reserve).
The first brackets are fixed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the drainpipe. Further, the step is made standard.
At what level to mount
The drainage system must be fixed so that, as a result, the receiving trays are located under the roofing material, protruding from under it by half or 2/3. This technology provides a full-fledged outflow of water from the roof into the gutters and further into the pipes.
Tilt angle of the gutter installation
In order for atmospheric precipitation to be transported by gravity to the receiving funnel, it is important to observe the slope angle in its direction from the opposite edge of the slope. Masters recommend maintaining 0.3-0.5 cm for each linear meter of communication.
In order for the slope to be even, the brackets for the trays must first be laid out side by side and numbered in ascending order - their presumable location from the lowest point to the highest. Then, a fold line (angle of inclination) is marked out along them and, using a special tool, the desired configuration of the hooks is formed according to the applied markings. After that, they are attached.
The trays are driven into the brackets until they click. Then they are joined using connectors. You can additionally use a sealant to eliminate the risk of leaks. Each subsequent gutter is installed in the direction from the lowest point of the slope to the highest.
Fastening funnels
The water intake funnel serves to quickly collect and drain sediments from the trays. It is mounted at the lowest point of the slope of the gutter line.
If the formation of a hole for a funnel in one of the trays is provided, mark the desired place. The hole is cut with a hacksaw. All burrs are removed. Use pliers to shape the funnel into the required shape and fit it to the tray.
This element of the gutter system is always installed first. Later, a line of trays is pulled from the funnel.
Installation of drainpipes
The pipe is a vertical communication element. It is attached to the wall using special clamps - rings along the diameter of the pipe with a central pin. It is important to make sure that the vertical pipe is at least 8-10 cm from the wall. This will prevent the element from hitting the facade of the building when water converges.
If you need to bypass architectural bay windows, use special transitional elbows. The bottom of the downpipe must be equipped with a drain. Its lowest point should be at least 25-30 cm above the ground. If you install too low a drain, ice will form in it in winter.
Installing a gutter on a finished roof
Sometimes it happens that you need to install a metal gutter system on finished roofs with your own hands. With the seeming impossibility of doing this, it is quite possible. There are several ways to do this:
- You can put boards under the bottom sheets of the roofing material, which will protect the slate or ondulin from deformation. In this case, you need to carefully unscrew their fasteners with pliers.
- Fasten the brackets to the frontal board. At the same time, it is really possible to decorate it as an interesting decorative element of the roof.
- If you have no time or desire to tinker with the boards, you can attach the trays directly to special crutches that are embedded in the wall of the house under the roof level. It is important to observe the bias.
- You can install the gutters on special brackets-clips. They are attached directly to the wave of the roofing material.
In any case, the drainage system will perform its functions fully.
Common mistakes
When installing a metal or polymer water drainage system, craftsmen often make the following mistakes:
- No slope of gutters. In this case, the water will simply collect in the gutters and overflow. In addition, small debris (sticks, leaves) will constantly be present in the canal. Under regular water pressure, the trays can break off, especially if ice forms in them in winter, which is possible in canals without a slope.
- Incorrectly selected capacity of the gutters. If it is small, even if there is a slope, the water will overflow. Too large a cross-section of the gutters is unreasonable to the costs incurred.
- Wrong bracket pitch. With large indents, the gutters can sag under the weight of the liquid and break over time. In addition, deflections will invariably lead to stagnation of water at these points, the formation of ice in them and then the line break. If the hooks are too close, this is also an inappropriate waste.
- The downpipe is too close to the wall. In this case, the vertical riser will hit the facade under the influence of vibration. Plaster, masonry will suffer, moisture will constantly affect the walls.
- Incorrect position of the trays in relation to the roof slopes. If they protrude excessively from under the roofing material, the waste water will forcefully beat against the edges of the gutters and overflow. The brackets will be loaded incorrectly (increased).
- Lack of protective grilles. Such simple elements prevent the system from clogging up with debris, branches, leaves do not fall into the vertical pipe, which will be more difficult to clean in which case.
Subject to the technology of installing the drain, the system will function fully for many years.