Flooded neighbors, bad smells in the apartment, water standing in the bathtub - all this may be the result of improper selection of sewer pipes and installation with violations. You should figure out how to avoid this.
Types of sewer pipes
There are three main materials from which sewer drain pipes are made: cast iron, ceramics, plastic. The first two materials are used for the manufacture of risers, sometimes they can be found in the wiring of old apartments and houses, and external networks of ceramics have also been preserved. Plastic is a more modern material. It has its drawbacks: worse heat resistance, noise insulation properties. However, polymers are distinguished by their durability, reliability, low cost and ease of high-quality installation.
In practice, two main types of plastic are used: polypropylene and polyethylene. Polypropylene has high temperature resistance and can be used in homes with hot water drainage. Polyethylene is suitable for outdoor sewerage systems laid underground.
Dimensions and construction
Pipes are distinguished by their outer diameter, length and wall thickness. The diameter is used to select fittings. Wall thickness is less important. In accordance with the sewerage project, a specification is drawn up: how many and what pipes are required for the object, how many connectors and gaskets to them, clamps, and other nodes are needed.
Based on the needs of one family, when laying a conventional drain network, diameters of 40 and 50 mm are used, and for flushing toilets and laying risers - 110 mm. 40 mm is only suitable for separate connection of a washing machine or dishwasher, 50 mm for all other cases. Such diameters allow you to easily clean the drain with a plumbing cable.
The pipes can be straight or bell-shaped. Straight splices lengthwise using fittings. Socket fittings are not needed - you can get a system of any length without using any connectors.
Smooth sleeves are usually used when laying horizontal wiring, bell-shaped ones for laying risers. Corrugation is also used. It is convenient to use it to connect sinks, household appliances.
Connecting elements
When installing socketless piping, various fittings are required:
- drives;
- tees and crosses;
- squares;
- bends;
- revisions;
- adapters.
Squares are found in 15-degree increments, usually using 45-degree angles. It is undesirable to make 90-degree turns, as the likelihood of blockages increases. Bends are also trying to be installed not straight, but at 45 degrees, given the possibility of cleaning through the hole of the plumbing fixture, the flow from the bend should enter along the flow in the main pipe. Revisions are built into other fittings. The adapters are asymmetrical - the smaller hole must be higher for longitudinal installation.
All connecting elements have gaskets for tightness. They must exactly match the pipe diameter and the type of fitting.
Installation of internal sewerage pipes
Before proceeding with the installation, you should have a project on hand. It is done in accordance with the location of plumbing fixtures, the design of the room, the location of the main risers in the house. You can order a project from professionals with a license and work experience, but for a private house you can do it yourself - draw up a drawing and a specification for it.
There are two basic rules for installation: ensure a slope of at least 1% and install without reducing the diameter. In practice, they make 2%, with a margin, but no more. Installation without reducing the diameter implies that it is possible to make an exit from a 50 mm network to another 50 or 110 mm network, but not at 40 mm.
Pipes are laid according to the drawing, having completed the markings on the walls and floor. Everything must be fixed on clamps, adjustable supports and stands. Fastened every meter, but not less than two points per one segment. Access to revisions must be provided, cleaning with a cable is thought out. Only one pressure pump is allowed on one line, that is, the washing machine and the dishwasher must have different entrances to the riser.
Under the sinks, you need to put siphons or mount water locks from corrugated pipes so that odors do not penetrate the room.
They use a special roller cutter. The place of the cut is cleaned with a file, and the lead-in chamfer is performed with it. After lubricating the joint gaskets with petroleum jelly, insert the pipe into them and fix it in the pre-installed clamps according to the marking. Some types of toilet fittings require the additional use of a silicone sealant. At the last stage, water is turned on and all joints are checked for leaks.
